![]() ![]() The squirt isn’t the fastest blitzer but very effective on most kinds of lubes and greases, resulting in dinner plate clean hosts. So, store as you would a more traditional/petrochemical product-away from small children and curious pets. Kind to grass and the wider environment it may be, smoothie it is not. ![]() Prevention is better than cure, so use out of the wind/in sheltered spots. Flush thoroughly with cold water, monitor and seek medical attention as required. In common with lots of similar bike washes/degreasers, get a misty droplet in your eyes and you’ll know about it. However, I’ve rinsed hands thoroughly and moisturised afterwards. Squirt hasn’t dried my hands or left them feeling rough. Sometimes I’ve worn mechanics gloves, others I haven’t. I’ve done several, extended deep transmission purges as part of a general early season care. Stating at the bars, spray liberally over the bike and leave fizzing away at the grime for 30-60 seconds before introducing your brushes/sponges. Harvest a bucket of warm water and your cleaning sponges/brushes. I’ve erred towards a richer brew-200ml/800ml water for speed but very much at my own risk. So long as you’ve got a snug lid on your makeshift/parts washer it shouldn’t evaporate, or dry out.Īs a bike wash, pour 100ml into a 1 litre bottle and top up with water. I’ve left stainless steel chain rings, electroplated chains for an hour or so, then introduced others later in the week. Talking of which, it can be re-used, provided you’ve not literally dredged components from a swamp. Leave another fifteen minutes, tickle, remove, rinse, dry, inspect and refit/consign to the bin. Got a chain in there? Yep, give that a tickle too. ![]() Yep, get that cassette claw between the sprockets and dig out that matted sludge-satisfying isn’t it. I poured 100ml into a heavy-duty PET tube, added components and left then marinating for fifteen minutes.Īt this point, tickle components with that stiff bristled brush of choice. When it comes to heavily soiled components caked in a witches’ brew of grease, oils and impacted contaminant, strip and immerse them in your parts washer/tub for 30minutes, then agitate with a suitably stiff brush.įor these purposes, I decanted 500ml in a separate (but thoroughly cleaned) screw top container. I’ve generally defaulted to the other methods, primarily since I’ve been doing high mileages in mucky weather. It can also be delivered old school team mechanic fashion, into the drivetrain using a brush, or even via a chain bath-if you’re just giving the bike a quick wash and want to switch to a different chain lube. Apparently, in bike wash mode, it can be mixed 1:25 and still perform well.Īs a degreaser, it can be applied directly to the host components via brush, or decanted into a parts washer and cassettes, rings bearing races etc submerged for a really deep clean. Runnier than Green Oil Chain Degreaser Jelly , but still a rich clingy viscosity that would latch on to the host gunk, breaking it down. Precise ingredients are a trade secret, but I can say its 65-70% water, the remainder small amounts of sulphate, gluconate, oxides, Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Sodium Metasilicate.ĭespite the high-water content, its green and very concentrate. Aside from our home enthusiast 500ml version, there’s a 60ml, 1 litre or 5litre workshop version. Before I get into it, worth noting Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate can be purchased in several sizes. ![]()
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